COAST & DUNE SIMULATION

A grain of sand on a beach does not stay put; it zig-zags along the shore, because waves arrive at an angle while the backwash runs straight down the slope. The more oblique the wave angle, the faster the longshore drift, and the longer the spit grows where the coastline bends. A groyne teaches coastal engineering’s expensive lesson: sand piles up thick on one side while the other is starved and cut back, so stopping erosion here simply moves it somewhere else.

▸ Building the coastline & shelf…
▸ Loading 5 coast types & sediment
▸ Starting oblique waves & longshore drift
▸ Linking the erosion–accretion model · spits
▸ Calibrating dunes to the wind…
▸ Ready — Online. ✅
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Simulation room Coasts & Dunes

Coasts & Dunes
Online
waves · longshore drift · spits
Wave rose & longshore drift
🏖️ Incoming wave → Beach
oblique waves → longshore drift carries sand
Coast type—
Wave approach angle—
Wave height—
Longshore drift—
Process—
Note
Waves arriving at an oblique angle create longshore drift — a "sand conveyor belt" that both erodes here and accretes there.
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Pick a "Scenario" (longshore drift / spit / erosion / dune / groyne / storm surge) in the right column · click a coast type / concept for details
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Longshore drift & wave height longshore driftwaves
About Coasts & Dunes

A grain of sand on a beach does not stay put; it zig-zags along the shore, because waves arrive at an angle while the backwash runs straight down the slope. The more oblique the wave angle, the faster the longshore drift, and the longer the spit grows where the coastline bends. A groyne teaches coastal engineering’s expensive lesson: sand piles up thick on one side while the other is starved and cut back, so stopping erosion here simply moves it somewhere else.

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